This entry will discuss the process of how I built my "Ti-Tan-ium" Glock18C. And because I just previously posted an entry showing how to change the plastic slide to metal slide, I will skip the major parts of that process.
Now, after dismantling the slide, I replaced the original barrel and hop rubber with their NineBall counterparts. I mentioned in my previous post that the reason for using a NineBall inner barrel is to compliment the color of the outer barrel and slide. Another reason is that I had planned on experimenting which barrel (PDI Raven or NineBall) will work better with the NineBall hop up rubber. I will post the results in the future.
With the inner barrel/chamber assembly reassembled, it was inserted into the outer barrel.
In the photo below, you can see that the front sight screw is already thread-locked into the slide. The screw is included in the set of the metal slide along with the front and rear sights. Originally, I had planned to have the NineBall Tritium sights installed in this Titanium slide but apparently, the Shooter's Design slide has a screw slot that will accomodate only the screw that came in with the whole set. As much as I really wanted to have the tritium sights in the titanium slide, I can't really do it. So I made do with the black iron sights.
After everything has been installed in the slide, it is then reassembled together. The NineBall recoil spring was replaced by a RCC 130% recoil spring. The two spacers that came with the recoil spring guide was removed.
Next is replacing the frame. This was the exciting part for me. Again, I've heard and read lots of good things about the Tokyo Marui Glocks, especially the 18C compared to its KSC counterpart, so I was really excited to see how this will turn out.
The first step is to remove the screw at the rear corner of the frame.
Then punch out the pin that holds the rear chassis in place.
Next up, the slide lock was removed from the frame. It's really easy to figure out how to remove it once you've seen the internals.
The main frame screw was then undone.
The magazine catch was removed from the frame. Again, it's easy to figure out how to do this. In case you still don't know how, just unhook the wire/spring from inside the frame that keeps the catch in place.
You can now remove the main frame pin from the mid-section of the frame.
With all the pins and screws removed, you can take out the whole chassis.
Working on the new frame, undo the screw that was included in the frame set.
Notice that the original screw and the one that comes with the frame has different thread pitches. You can't use the original screw with the new frame. And vice-versa, of course.
Place the magazine catch spring/wire inside the frame.
Install the magazine catch.
Put the serial number plate/safety into place.
The front chassis can now be installed in the frame. It was then held tight by the main frame screw and the mid-section pin. The tricky part in here is to align the holes of the chassis with the parts of the magazine release lever and the frame holes. It's tricky...but not hard to do.
The next step is to install the slide lock.
The rear chassis was now installed into the frame and it was then kept in place by the rear frame pin.
After that, the chassis was finally firmly held into the frame by the rear screw.
Based on my 2 experiences of customizing a Tokyo Marui Glock, I can say that there is totally no lapping needed to make the slide rack smoothly on the frame. I can also attest to the articles I've read, videos I've watched and people I've talked to: It is very easy, indeed, to customize a Tokyo Marui Glock. I had encountered no problem at all doing both my Glock custom works.
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