Glock 18C Slide & Frame Replacement

This entry will discuss the process of how I built my "Ti-Tan-ium" Glock18C. And because I just previously posted an entry showing how to change the plastic slide to metal slide, I will skip the major parts of that process.

Now, after dismantling the slide, I replaced the original barrel and hop rubber with their NineBall counterparts. I mentioned in my previous post that the reason for using a NineBall inner barrel is to compliment the color of the outer barrel and slide. Another reason is that I had planned on experimenting which barrel (PDI Raven or NineBall) will work better with the NineBall hop up rubber. I will post the results in the future.  

With the inner barrel/chamber assembly reassembled, it was inserted into the outer barrel.

In the photo below, you can see that the front sight screw is already thread-locked into the slide. The screw is included in the set of the metal slide along with the front and rear sights. Originally, I had planned to have the NineBall Tritium sights installed in this Titanium slide but apparently, the Shooter's Design slide has a screw slot that will accomodate only the screw that came in with the whole set. As much as I really wanted to have the tritium sights in the titanium slide, I can't really do it. So I made do with the black iron sights.

After everything has been installed in the slide, it is then reassembled together. The NineBall recoil spring was replaced by a RCC 130% recoil spring. The two spacers that came with the recoil spring guide was removed.

Next is replacing the frame. This was the exciting part for me. Again, I've heard and read lots of good things about the Tokyo Marui Glocks, especially the 18C compared to its KSC counterpart, so I was really excited to see how this will turn out.

The first step is to remove the screw at the rear corner of the frame.

Then punch out the pin that holds the rear chassis in place.

Next up, the slide lock was removed from the frame. It's really easy to figure out how to remove it once you've seen the internals.

The main frame screw was then undone.

The magazine catch was removed from the frame. Again, it's easy to figure out how to do this. In case you still don't know how, just unhook the wire/spring from inside the frame that keeps the catch in place.

You can now remove the main frame pin from the mid-section of the frame.

With all the pins and screws removed, you can take out the whole chassis.

Working on the new frame, undo the screw that was included in the frame set.

Notice that the original screw and the one that comes with the frame has different thread pitches. You can't use the original screw with the new frame. And vice-versa, of course.

Place the magazine catch spring/wire inside the frame.

Install the magazine catch.

Put the serial number plate/safety into place.

The front chassis can now be installed in the frame. It was then held tight by the main frame screw and the mid-section pin. The tricky part in here is to align the holes of the chassis with the parts of the magazine release lever and the frame holes. It's tricky...but not hard to do.

The next step is to install the slide lock.

The rear chassis was now installed into the frame and it was then kept in place by the rear frame pin.

After that, the chassis was finally firmly held into the frame by the rear screw.

Based on my 2 experiences of customizing a Tokyo Marui Glock, I can say that there is totally no lapping needed to make the slide rack smoothly on the frame. I can also attest to the articles I've read, videos I've watched and people I've talked to: It is very easy, indeed, to customize a Tokyo Marui Glock. I had encountered no problem at all doing both my Glock custom works.

Glock18C: Metal Slide and Barrel Mod

This is my first time to disassemble and modify a Tokyo Marui Glock. At first I was kind of nervous or anxious but remembering how other people say that it's very easy, I went on with it.

Just like the 1911, the slide must be taken out of the frame first. The Tokyo Marui Glocks have the same field stripping process as the real Glocks. The slide lock must be pressed down first on both sides of the gun. Then, while holding down the slide lock, pull the slide back, and push it out front.

After that, the recoil spring guide assembly and the barrel assembly can be taken out from the slide.

The inner barrel assembly can now be taken out from the outer barrel.

The screw that joins the two halves of the chamber was undone to access the inner barrel and hop up rubber.

The PDI 6.01 Raven inner barrel and NineBall hop rubber replaced the original Tokyo Marui parts.

The inner barrel assembly was then put together again with the new parts installed.

Then it was oiled on the sides and inserted into the PGC metal outer barrel.

Now the slide was turned upside down and the screw that keeps the selector mechanism, blowback unit and the rear sight was undone.

The part that keeps the selector switch and mechanism in place was then taken out.

Also the selector block (I'm just making up the part names here depending on their function on the gun) and its spring.

Then the selector switch can be removed. This is a bit tricky to do so it's ok to take your time.

After that, the rear sight will just fall off on the other side. The blowback unit can be removed the same way in 1911s. The sides of the slide must be widened and with use of a finger the blowback unit can be pushed out from the slide.

Now the PGC metal slide was prepared by installing its small parts like the dummy extractor plug and the small circular part on the inner rear of the slide (I have no idea what they call it in real steel, I suppose it's an extractor pin. It's a dummy part in airsoft anyway).

The NineBall Tritium sight was screwed into the slide and the blowback unit and selector assembly parts were installed. Everything is just a virtual drop-in.

Now to finish the custom work, the new barrel assembly and the recoil spring guide assembly were put in place. (In the photo below, the recoil spring is still the original Tokyo Marui recoil spring).

Glock18C Black Custom

I've always wanted to use metal slides on my Glocks. My close friend had told me that installation was easy and that once installed, the sound of the slide racking is just music to the ears. I saw a couple of PGC metal slide and barrel sets in a local airsoft shop and I just couldn't let the opportunity to pass. 

Another part that I'm always keen on replacing is the inner barrel. I opted to use the PDI 6.01 Raven inner barrel as I have heard and read lots of good things about it.

One of the main reasons I got the G18C is its full-auto capability. This pistol was intended for my CQB games and most such games here in Japan were held indoors. Almost always, these game sites would have unlit area where it would be hard to aim your gun if you're using black iron sights or non-glowing sights. So part of the plan really is to put a Tritium sight and the Nineball Tritium sights for Glock are just awesome! 

My usual custom work for pistols would almost always include a hop rubber replacement and this particular custom gun is no exception. I always use the Nineball hop rubber whenever I replace the Tokyo Marui original hop rubber.

Of course, when the plastic slide and barrel are replaced by metal (aluminum) ones, no matter how light the aluminum is, it would tend to be heavier than the plastic parts. Replacing the recoil spring is a must so that the slide cycles well when the gun is fired. In this project I used a RCC 130% recoil spring.

I'm excited to show you the very easy process of changing from a plastic slide to a metal slide. Wait for it on the next post.

Wired out.